WASHINGTON – Americans at high risk for heart problems who have been told for years to sharply cut salt from their diet may not actually benefit from ultra-low sodium diets and could even face some harm, an independent panel of health experts stated on Tuesday.

The influential Institute of Medicine, in a report to U.S. health officials, reviewed the latest data on the link between salt intake and health.

While blacks, diabetics and others more likely to have heart problems are urged to slash their salt intake, the IOM review showed there was limited evidence such a diet helped, and that too tiny salt might increase the risk of heart trouble.

“The evidence on both the benefit and harm is not strong enough to indicate that these subgroups should be treated differently from the general U.S. population,” the panel wrote.

That suggests higher-risk populations may not need such a drastic reduction of salt in their diets and that other steps to curb heart disease risk may be needed.

Americans are still consuming far too much salt, the IOM experts said. On average, U.S. adults eat about 1.5 teaspoons of salt over the course of the day, or about 3,400 milligrams.

Federal guidelines recommend that healthy people consume no more than 2,300 milligrams daily.

But the latest data calls into question whether individuals with higher risk factors for heart disease or stroke should limit their daily intake to 1,500 milligrams, as the government recommends.

Brian Strom, the panel’s chairman and a public health professor at the University of Pennsylvania, stated the newest studies back the known benefits of “reducing sodium from very high intake levels to moderate levels.”

“But they also suggest that lowering sodium intake too much may actually increase a person’s risk of some health problems,” he said, including heart ailments.

Still, the studies are limited and in some cases flawed, so more research is needed, the IOM panel told the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, which requested the report.

Health advocates including the American Heart Association were quick to dismiss the findings, saying the recent studies reviewed by IOM focused on sick patients and not the majority of Americans, most of whom eat too much salt.

“The bottom line for consumers is still: cut back on sodium,” stated the Center for Science in the Public Interest’s (CSPI) Bonnie Liebman.

The problem is not just food loaded with salt. It’s also that Americans eat a lot of food that contains lower amounts of salt, such as bread and pasta, without realizing their sodium content.

Health officials have called for Americans to take various steps to cut back, such as asking for no-salt dishes in restaurants and eating more naturally low-salt foods like fruits and vegetables.

Health advocates stated the IOM’s review was beside the point given the high levels of sodium that still plague U.S. foods. It’s nearly impossible to ingest just 1,500 milligrams a day, stated Liebman, director of nutrition for CSPI.

“Virtually any meal at any restaurant would give you at least half-a-day’s worth of sodium, maybe a whole day’s worth, maybe more,” Liebman said. “You’d have to make everything from scratch. … It’s pretty tough.”

Consumer groups and some lawmakers have for years called on the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to set federal salt levels for food, a recommendation that the IOM backed in 2010.

In New York City, health officials have been working with restaurants and food companies to voluntarily remove salt from each day foods.

A trio of studies published on Monday found that smaller restaurants still load their food with salt even as national chains and food manufacturers have cut back. (Read the Reuters story at http://reut.rs/YRGVCI)

The FDA, in a statement, stated it was reviewing the IOM’s report, calling it consistent with its “efforts to work toward achievable and reasonable voluntary reductions in the sodium content of the U.S. food supply.”

IOM was not asked to review current federal salt intake guidelines, which were issued in 2010. U.S. health officials are expected to revise the guidelines on salt and other nutrients in 2015.

(Reporting by Susan Heavey; Editing by Michele Gershberg and Xavier Briand)

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The entire back wall of the restaurant is covered with images of a crowd of children by the painter Donald Baechler.

IN HIS LANDMARK STUDY FROM 1971, “The Food of Italy,” Waverley Root divided that nation into 19 distinct culinary regions. The book is a classic, its insights and prose recipes still tantalizing four decades later, but it contains a major oversight. Mr. Root states nothing at all about the Italian Upper East Side.

In this chunk of the earth that broke off from the boot and drifted 4,300 miles across the ocean before colliding with Manhattan, the restaurant menus resemble one another more than they do the menus of Emilia-Romagna, Campania or Umbria. Ligurian pesto, Tuscan steak, Roman pasta all’amatriciana and Sicilian cannoli live together in harmony. Salad is an antipasto, truffles never go out of season, and beets with goat cheese is a combination as time-honored as tomatoes and olive oil.

, which opened in 2009 around the corner from the Whitney Museum of American Art, makes a strong bid to win respect in its wayward region. Owned by Giuseppe, Antonio, Cosimo and Geraldo Bruno, the four brothers who also run Sistina and San Pietro not far away, it is one of the most civilized Italian restaurants to turn up anywhere in the city in the last few years.

Plumes of fresh flowers (cherry blossoms in early April, calla lilies later in the month) line one side of the hallway to the dining room; on the other is a framed print by — oh, hello, signed Matisse lithograph. Inside are more flowers, and much more art: a pair of Ellsworth Kelly prints, a pair of Frank Stella paintings, all four purchased from the widow of William Rubin, the former curator of painting and sculpture at the Museum of Modern Art.

On a commission from the Brunos, the painter Donald Baechler has covered the entire back wall with a crowd of the eeriest children in the world. With their terrified eyes and gaping red mouths, they look as if they might be friends of Dick and Jane’s who have just watched Spot eat Puff. The mural is unsettling, but it has the hovering, electric presence of real art.

is defiantly elegant in an age that sees white tablecloths as a medieval relic whose sadistic power to stand in the way of a good time is second only to that of the chastity belt. The tables are draped with linens, ceiling baffles keep the noise to a low burble, and streamlined chocolate-leather chairs offer a quaint amenity known as lumbar support.

Another anachronism: a dress code. Jeans, shorts and sneakers are not permitted, the Web site says, even though in practice only the ban on shorts is enforced. Jackets and ties are not required, but nearly all the men wear them, along with haircuts that seem to have been tidied up at Paul Molé a day or two ago. The women seem to have had their hair done even more recently. ’s loyalists are so well groomed, it is humbling. “We are among our betters,” a companion stated one night.

The plates are just as carefully put together, assembled with a sharp eye for color and shape. has a roasted swordfish that is an Italian flag in seafood form, the white fillet sitting between a red pond of puréed tomato sauce and a frothy green sea of oregano sauce. And it served me one of the prettiest veal chops I’ve ever seen, trimmed into a thick, nearly perfect circle and evenly, handsomely browned.

Osso buco with saffron risotto, which may be the official dish of the Italian Upper East Side, looked better than ever and was nearly ideally cooked, the meat tender and rose-tinted, the rice firm and creamy.

But , for all its civility, is haunted by inconsistency more than three years into its run. Some of my meals there were very good; in others, I couldn’t find a single dish to get excited about, and there were a few that were just not right at all.

The same kitchen that dressed perfectly al dente spaghetti with a wonderfully balanced pesto of dried nuts and tomatoes put too many tomatoes in a Sicilian sardine and fennel sauce and tossed the result with bucatini that were crunchy and hard at one end. Dover sole was cooked to show off the firm delicacy that makes it such a treat, but the swordfish wrapped in the Italian flag should have come out of the oven at least two minutes sooner.

Scallops, shrimp and little squid rings were sweet and tender, and while serving them warm over braised leeks with a lobster reduction may have stretched the definition of a seafood salad, it was so good nobody would ever complain. But in another appetizer, octopus tentacles had no flavor at all; they were nothingness with suction cups.

’s bomboloni, sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and served hot in a figure-8 dish with vanilla sauce and caramel, were light enough to achieve liftoff. But the floury, dry torta di ricotta remained depressingly earthbound.

First-time travelers should be warned: no matter what the euro is trading at, the exchange rate on the Italian Upper East Side is always awful. It is especially unfavorable at , where salads start at $18, and most of the pastas hover around $25. This ought to be enough to purchase bucatini that is cooked on both ends.

Service, slightly formal but relaxed enough to crack a smile, often lived up to ’s aspirations. But there could be unscheduled leaves of absence after main courses were cleared, and one night one server after another tried to take our order before anyone had told us about the specials. When someone finally did, the recitation went on for nearly five minutes, covering at least a dozen dishes.

It felt like a memory quiz, one I always flunked until I started writing the correct answer on my palm: just get the chicken meatballs. They are made from white meat blended with capers, sun-dried tomatoes, thyme and enough milk-soaked bread to give them some loft, and they are braised in tomato sauce, but none of this quite accounts for their appeal.

The appeal of fickle and costly is easier to explain. For great Italian cooking, much of the action is in thunderous and flashy downtown dining rooms. The civilized style of a place like feels as rare and impressive as a blue whale. That would draw me back, along with the chicken meatballs, the bomboloni, those spooky children and the chance that one day the restaurant will put the Italian Upper East Side on the map.

ATMOSPHERE White tablecloths, hushed tones and boldly chosen artworks by Frank Stella, Ellsworth Kelly and Donald Baechler.

SERVICE Respectful and formal, but not stiff.

SOUND LEVEL Even when people raise their voices here, they do it quietly.

RECOMMENDED Meatballs; eggplant parmigiana; roasted swordfish; roasted red snapper; bomboloni; cannoli.

DRINKS AND WINE The long list runs into money quickly, but there are some good choices under $60.

PRICES Appetizers and pasta, $18 to $38; main courses, $32 to $48.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS The dining room and accessible restroom are on street level.